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Buy Run Capacitor

This article series explains how to choose & buy an electric motor start capacitor, hard start capacitor, or run capacitor that is properly rated for and matches the requirements of the electric motor such as an AC compressor motor or fan motor where the capacitor is to be installed.

buy run capacitor

If I understand the question it's about how the wires connect to the terminals on the capacitor; Most use a push-on spade-type connector, but in any event the connector type won't affect how the capacitor works.

Thank you for the quick reply! We have that capacitor on Amazon Canada. But the terminals I need I think are quick connect terminals. I have three wires that attach to the capacitor and I'm not sure how that would work with this capacitor ( =3nJjFK6qcHk).There is no run capacitor in the food processor, just the start cap and the AC motor really. Apologies but what would a failing bearing look like, which I presume is in the motor? I presume if the motor is kaput, it's time to buy a new food processor. And why would there be low voltage as an alternative?My sense is that this all started happening after working the processor too hard.

I'm searching for this Whirlpool motor starting capacitor #8211608 used in a Kitchenaid Food Processor KFP1322ER0. The food processor blade spins, but not with the same speed and a humming sound is especially obvious at low speed . I'm assuming it's the starting capacitor but not certain. Not sure what other explanation there might be. Don't see any other capacitor in the motor assembly. And I can measure the starting capacitor's capacitance easily enough to see if it matches its rating. Assuming the problem is the capacitor, the problem is this starting capacitor is no longer available, but I did find this picture with the technical specs on it attached below. So its capacitance is 150 MF, rated voltage is 125-185 VAC, and capacitor frequency is 50/60Hz. I've been able to find other motor starting capacitors on Amazon Canada but nothing that matches exactly. Based on your great detailed explanations, beyond physical size which seems similar, I can find the following capacitors: * 161-193 MF (range slightly higher than you're suggestion of +20%), with voltage of either 125VAC (SeaKnight) * 161-193 MF, 220-250 VAC (Packard) * 145-174 MF (so slightly below the 150 MF of the original on the low end), 110-330 VAC (NTE Electronics) * 145-175 MF, 330 VAC (Packard at 4x cost of the NTE capacitor) * 124-149 +/- 5% MF, 330 VAC, 50/60 Hz (Packard) Would any of these 5 work well? It seems like the MF is the bigger constraint, with nothing fixed at 150 MF. The ranges either fall 5% below on the low end or > +20% MF rating (35% above actually) on the high end. Also I'm not able to confirm that all would be 50/60Hz. Is that a problem? Any help would be appreciated - thank you. Kevin

In the article CHOOSE a START / RUN CAPACITOR, HOW TO we have some suggested starting points for capacitors for electric motors of different horsepowers or sizes period of course the correct and best solution is to obtain a start or run capacitor that matches the specifications on your electric motors data tag.

Indeed, Mark, a humming electric motor might get running again with a hard-start capacitor but quite often the root problem is a failing bearing that means the motor's future life is going to be short. You can tell if it's a start or run capacitor by the general ohms range as you will see in the article above. A run cap is always much smaller in ohms rating than a start cap.If you can find a properly-sized capacitor you don't have to mount it inside the housing if you can connect its leads to the proper points, just as you suggest. I can't quite read the label on your device but it looks like 0.1 uf 225V but there ars some other ratign data as well - maybe temperatures? There are hundreds of electric motor capacitor vendors, both local in most cities, and online, as well as the big boys like Grainger who have almost everything.

My Northern Tool Ironton utility transfer (pony) pump had it's capacitor die (motor hums, but doesn't turn. Water got into the electronics housing I think.It was a great pump (I bought an Everbuilt from Home Depot that looked the same, but the pump housing was plastic and it seems to foam my pool water, where the Ironton didn't).I believe this is a running capacitor with thermal protection, see attached.It says X2, which seems hard to find. I believe I still can solder (used to do surface mount stepper ICs back in the day when hard drives were repairable), so was wondering where to find a replacement.

Anonymous Unless I misread something that looks like an exact replacement. The only differences 3 placement capacitor is more precise or headless variation from its standard rating than the original.

MikeThank you for the added information. I may still be a little bit in the dark on this but it sounds as if all you need to do is wire the replacement capacitor and find a safe place to mount it outside of the motor since it doesn't fit inside. The capacitor can be anywhere close to the motor, of course keeping your wires as short as you can.

Thanks for your reply. Apologies, my question was not very clear. Old capacitor on 240v motor was 125v 150uF. The 250v 150uF I bought is too large to fit in housing. Question - is original capacitor rated at 125v okay to be refitted on motor driven by 240v line voltage?

MikeON the capacitor body you'll see a voltage range like the one you cite - 250v 150uF start capacitor. - that 250-V is the maximum voltage the cap can handle; you're OK using it at lower voltage that matches your motor's data plate.

The electric motor is single phase and runs off 240v. It was fitted with a start capacitor with a rating of 125V and 150uF. The drill has had a previous restoration and the capacitor did not look original.

Unable to test the capacitor other than the motor starts okay I decided to change the capacitor. Concerned by the voltage rating of the existing capacitor (125v) and not knowing if it was correctly replaced by the previous restorer, I erred on the side of caution and purchased a 250v 150uF start capacitor. When it arrived it was too big for the capacitor housing.

On further investigation I have been unable to source a 250V capacitor with dimensions that would fit the capacitor housing. Reading this page, I have learned that the capacitor voltage is not necessarily linked to the line voltage but to a voltage derived from the windings. Does this mean that the 125V rated capacitor is likely to be the correct capacitor for a 240v motor?

MogamatIt looks as if your motor runs at 220 or 380 Volts 3 phase and at 220V runs at 16.5A while at 380V it runs at 9.6A.The CAV (short for cavalli or horsepower) on the data plate of this Italian motor from Tavernelle indicates that it's a 5.5 hp motor.Typically the run capacitor on a 5 hp. motor is around 30 µF - 40 µF 370VACTypically the start capacitor for a 5 hp motor is around 600uFTo take a stab at answering "how to convert a 3 phase motor to run on single phase power" I found a variety of answers ranging from "it's easy" to "it's a really bad idea, even dangerous".Kemet (cited in the guidebooks given in the article above) notes: By connecting a capacitor to the two phases it is possible to make a three-phase motor work as a single-phase motor.Watch out: you cannot simply hook up a 3 phase motor arbitrarily to single phase current; you need to review the wiring recommendations from motor companies or engineers.Options include:A phase shift capacitor;Motor re-windingUsing a VFD or variable frequency driveUse a converter to convert your single phase power to DC (Direct Current) and then use an inverter to power the motor. From what I read this is your best bet. As one EE notes "You can run a three phase motor from single phase by converting the single phase AC-DC(rectification) and then DC-AC(3 phase inverter)."

However pretty much everyone says this is an inefficient way to run a motor - i.e. your electric bill will be higher than necessary. On Quora a Bombay writer recommended: Use capacitor of say 36 / 72 / 108 mfd 440 V rating. depending upon motor rating. Connect one end of this capacitor to open unconnected terminal of motor.

The other terminal of capacitors can be connected to one of the two live phases, and the motor will start running. If you change over the capacitor terminal to other phase , its direction of rotation will get reversed.This system is routinely used in India particularly in rural areas for running of pumps.

This arrangement is certainly not the optimum for the motor, and the phase difference between the windings will differ from 120 degrees needed. However, this does makes the motor start and save the day for farmers when 3 phase supply is not available. - See See this article by Chuck Yung on running a 3-phase motor on single phase power.

This is a 250 uF starting cap good up to 250VAC 50/60 Hz - your macerator pump motor may need a higher capacity or voltage unit than this; Have you checked the data tags or capacitor specifications in the manual for your macerator (sewage grinder pump) ?

I don't have authoritative data on capacitor defect occurrence rate for new caps such as you described.But something doesn't smell right in your capacitor selection.You say it's an electric motor STARTING CAPACITOR RATED AT JUST 10uF [and 450v) but 10uF is awfully low for a motor starting capacitor.For example over at Grainger - one of the biggest suppliers - their electric motor starting capacitor guide doesn't even go that low.You are describing a motor in a macerator - perhaps what is also called a sewage grinder pump? - if so, again I'm doubtful about that capacitor selection.Over at you'll see that a Dayton brand 10uF 450VAC capacitor sells for under $10. in the U.S. - under 10 - AND that such caps in that range are labeled as motor RUN capacitors NOT as start capacitors. IF your start cap was not properly sized that could explain why it keeps blowing. Is it possible that the labeling on the original motor start cap was blurred or damaged or mis-read? 041b061a72

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